Is a tightbore/silencer worth it?

[Clayton0912]

My rifle is a KWA SR7, which has the CQB length barrel. This is great at Battlefield, but it's sub-par at Dead End.
A tightbore and a supressor to cover it up would cost me around $70-$90. Is a few extra yards of range, a small of FPS increase, and a bit more accuracy really worth the money?

Thanks in advance for any opinions.

[45 Bravo]

by sub par, by how much?

If it is a lot, i would just have a complete second gun rather than screw up a good thing.

if it is just a little, a longer barrel, a really good hopup assembly (the most important part, even more so than a tight bore)
might be worth it.

Just remember
Reliability is king (if it dont shoot you cant play)
FPS is queen (a 285fps Tokyo Marui will outdistance many 400fps guns due to the better made hop up in the marui)
Accuracy is next, see #1, if it shoots, you can always send enough rounds downrange to get 1 in

Just a suggestion.
45 Bravo

[vulrath]

Why not get a stock-length tightbore? Past a total length of 250mm, accuracy gains from additional barrel length is actually pretty minimal. I don't care for "having" to have a silencer on my guns, so I generally dislike having barrels longer than stock. The exception to that is sniper rifles, where I'll go more for what is available rather than a direct match for the stock barrel (I have 2 KJW M700s, and the stock barrel length is 627mm; without getting a custom barrel, the closest size available is 650mm, for example). Shouldn't cost you more than $40 for a Madbull (just to let you know, only two of my rifles don't have Madbulls, and that's because one is a WA GBBR and because the other has a CA barrel and I don't feel like messing with the PDI T96 hop up in it).

I'd like to second the suggestion of looking at the hop up. Maybe you need a new bucking; maybe the nub flew out during your last game. Maybe your hop up unit is just trashed. A little troubleshooting tip: start at the least expensive potential issue and work your way up (IE look at the bucking first, then the nub, then hop chamber, and finally barrel). That way, if it turns out to be something inexpensive, then you didn't sink a metric ton into the thing unnecessarily.

[Clayton0912]

[Lancer]

Barrel length past the 247 mark seems to be pretty insignificant as far as added accuracy goes. It will boost your FPS, but that's about it.

Work on your shot-to-shot FPS consistency as well as making sure you have a good hop up chamber/rubber/nub combination. That will give you the best chance of having excellent range and accuracy.

[45 Bravo]

Not by Much...
If it is that close, and your accuracy is good now, i would just work on the air-seal.

I would get into the hop up first, (bucking, nub) to start with, and maybe a o-ring nozzle for the gearbox (I bought an aluminum one for $9 shipped on ebay) all to increase the efficiency of your air seal.

My primary is a 4 year old classic army m4 pro-line that i had to replace the cylinder head when it finally snapped after 30,000+ rounds.
While i had it down, I bought an aluminum cylinder head(shs), aluminum o-ring nozzle(shs also), a new piston o-ring, a guarder bucking & nub.
Total rebuild investment? less than $45, and shoots better than it did new.

Factory Length barrel, (the suppressor is just the look i want)


45 Bravo

[Lancer]

The SHS nozzle/cylinder head combo is really quite excellent. It's the best seal I've ever gotten and would strongly recommend you start there.