most accurate sniper when upgraded?

[vulrath]

Both the UTG/Maruzen L96/Type 96 and the BAR/VSR have TONS of upgrade potential (VSR is going to be marginally cheaper because its a more popular platform, but you'll still have to shell out a lot of cash to get it skirmishable as far as upgrades are concerned).

Another thing to look at would be a KJW/Tanaka M700. I've upgraded mine to shoot anywhere between 500 and 700 (and up) FPS with a tightbore, a VSR hop up bucking, a Dremel, a new striker spring, and an external CO2 rig (easily the most expensive part of the gun).

[SwampFox]

To be more specific in regards to the original question;

All spring sniper rifles are made, more or less, the same way. Things to take into consideration would be:

-Barrell length (inner)

-Barrell Diameter (tightbore vs stock)

-Barrell length in relation to spring (Does your spring have enough power to push the BB down the barrell and still retain enough force to be accurate w/ a non-linear spin at a certain distance.)

-Cylinder head (is it producing enough air flow)

-Cylinder diameter (this is a new one to me, as the concept of a "bore up" cylinder has come along in the time ive stopped playing, but the theory is sound. Bigger cylinder, more air.)

-Reciever and barrell seating to stock (Simple idea, if the barrell and reciever arent secured tightly to the stock, then youll have to barrell/stock wobble which, since your using a non-linear spin, can drastically alter the trajectory of your BB. If you have a bore up cylinder, then youll need a bigger reciever, therefore you will have to make adjustments to re-seat your reciever. Also keep in mind that leaning on your weapon while firing, or on a bipod attached to your weapon, can stuff the barrell/reciever which *may* alter your shot)

-Trigger (can your trigger sears withstand a stronger spring? how much pressure will you have to exert to squeeze the trigger? too hard of a trigger pull due to an upgraded spring and stock trigger can alter your shots drastically.)

and , although its not part of the gun:

-BB's. (are your BB's consistant enough to make a consistant shot? personally, i only used Maruzen Super Grand Masters (SGM's) .29g BB's. They are the most consistantly made BB in reference to diameter, weight, and slight imperfections [small air holes in the center of the BB that sometimes happen dureing the manufacturing process]. And keep in mind that that is not an opinion, its a scientific fact thats been tested and proven. .3g and .4g ARE NOT made for sniper rifles, so dont bother, you wont hit jack.)

Again, just my .02. Keep these things in mind when looking for a platform to upgrade. If these basic upgrade parts are not available, it cant be more accurate than a platform that has these parts. For example, the Marui L96 does not have many of these parts made specifically for it, while the VSR 10 does. Therefore, unless the VSR and L96 parts are interchangeable, the L96 cant possibly be as accurate until someone manufactures the parts.

Oh, and about the stock seating, you can do that yourself with some tape and some small pieces of paper. Worked like a dream on my APS and was un-noticeable if you looked at the weapon.

[optomis]

The most accurate sniper rifle will be a classic running HPA finely tuned with a very precision made LRB. Using the correct setup I've seen classics reach out to 300+ feet consistently. That being said, properly tuned Tanaka's *Pre-bans are even better* and especially RHF rifles will make it to about 300 feet consistently if your using a good setup (Ex: VSR conversion chamber or Best Gun hopup kit if you can find one, PDI tightbore, King Arms nozzle, tapped magazines with an HPA line, well tuned and running heavy BB's).

[Gavman2]

If you ask me, the gun with the biggest amount of criticms is no-doubt th KJW M700. It easily beats the higher grade Tanaka M700 if you put on the following things: a good scope, a tight-bore barrel, an HPA system and a silencer. My neighbor has one of these bad-boys and after Six tries, we got a shot at a piece of school-paper from around 600 feet, not to mention adding a powerful hop-up. They ARE right though, if you know the precise trajectory formula, hop-up settings, and have the aim of a man that practices all day (me) sometimes, use a calculator to find out the correct angle to fire at and adjust for windage and you have the most powerful of all sniper rifles, which is almost as if reaching sniper nirvana, when you become one with your gun, naming it like a girlfriend is not neccessary, but if you have, you have probably reached "sniper nirvana".

[vulrath]

I've already paid my respects to the KJW in a previous post (actually at the top of this page). It is powerful, but it needs a lot of fine tuning to get it shooting perfectly.

[Jackalope]

About hop up. Some people have mentioned getting "good hop-up" i have run with my vsr10 gspec with a tight bore barrel and upgraded spring with a zero trigger system. I still have the original hop-up. I just purchased a KJW M700 with an HPA system, I know it takes VSR10 barrels and hop up. Since i already have a good tight bore, what would be the best hop-up to get. Ive tried researching it, but im getting mixed answers.

[vulrath]

The "best" will vary from person to person. King Arms is okay, but they're having some QC issues, so if you get one from them, you need to turn it inside out and cut the excess material off of it (you'll know it when you see it). Others suggest the Firefly. I haven't had any experience with anything other than the stock one and the King Arms, so I can't tell you anything about them. (I've also heard good things about the stock TM buckings.)

Did you replace your barrel? You need to do that at the same time as when you replace the bucking. The stock one is TERRIBLE.

[Jackalope]

ok, i havnt really messed around with hop-up, so what is bucking, is that the rubber sleeve? and then i suppose hop-up refers to the actual device that pushes on the rubber piece. is that right?

[vulrath]

THe "hop up" is the whole package. The bucking is the part that goes over the end of the barrel and catches the BBs on the way out.

[DWRacing39]

Ive tried the stock bucking, the firefly and the nineball in the VSR-10’s that ive built. Honestly overall the stock TM bucking is really good. The nineballs I tried were when they were having QC issues with them and both of mine sucked. But others have nothing but good things to say for the most part about the nineball. One good thing about it is that it is an “airseal bucking” That just means it is made to seal around the nozzle when a round is chambered. But it helps in consistency. The firefly is good as well but kinda finiky. It has 2 prongs that touch the bb instead of the normal nub. The problem is that the actual lever in the hop up that actually pushes down on the bucking has 2 prongs that are similar but they are wider spaced. That’s a problem because when it pushes down on the bucking it makes the 2 prongs that contact the bb squeeze closer together. But if you work with it the firefly is very accurate. Never tried the King Arms bucking but I plan on testing it, along with the firefly and nineball on my HPA project. Ive heared that the King Arms is a harder bucking, along with having an airseal like the nineball. Which is ideal in high fps applications.

[vulrath]

the material that the King Arms bucking is made of reminds me of the feel of the pink eraser on a #2 pencil, if that helps any.

I'm hoping to get some time this weekend to go do some shooting and see if my modifications (cut flashing off of the bucking and ground grooves into the sides of the hop chamber) will stop my rifle's bloody corkscrew act.

[DWRacing39]

Grooves in the hop chamber? is this on your vsr or you kjw? ive only had a rifle do the corkscrew thing a couple of times. I usually was able to just take the hop assembly down and put it all back together making sure everything is lined up and fix it. But I havent had it happen enough to know the cause and how to truly fix it. Hope it works out.

[vulrath]

The KJW. I haven't invested in a VSR yet (saving for a real steel SIG). By "grooves", I mean I made a track of sorts by running the top edge of a round file across the sides of the chamber. The thinking behind that is that there may be some rough material catching the nub on its way down on one side, causing it to apply hop in a weird way.

Sadly, I won't get to test it till Saturday (work is pretty much consuming my life this week). I too am hoping everything works out, since I hate having guns in pieces on my table (well, the ones that I own, anyway; other people's guns are fine because that means that I will eventually get paid for that ).

[DWRacing39]

Im ready to get started on my new one. Im hoping it will be better than the kjw was. But thats gonna be tough. The kjw surprised me