Bar 10 mods

[Fridge Gnome]

I recently ordered Bar 10, and a 6.03 barrel, I have read about the mods for the Bar 10 and it seems that with a tightbore and the mods you would have a very good performing sniper rifle, but it confuses me why you would spend lots of money for new parts, to reach what seems to me the same thing as the mods will do for free.
I know that the mods will cause things to wear out faster, but is it so fast it would not last long enough to use it some?

What am I missing here?

[Death]

I still have yet to believe that you get as much gain as some people claim from those mods. I can see maybe 20-30 fps AT THE MOST from those mods unless your gun had a major airseal from the factory.

It will not wear out the gun faster but the first part to go in those is the piston sear. I've fixed some of these that have worn in the first fifty shots and I have seen some last about 1000 rounds. You can never tell when this potmetal well wear.

Remember everything you hear on forums is usually a load of crap. The only information you can truly trust is the info that you gain from doing these things yourself. Use what you read online very carefully. Anyone with a computer and the internet can post information whether it be true or false.

[Fridge Gnome]

Alright thanks, What are the main things that should be upgraded, the spring, and the barrel? Also will a new cylinder or somthing make it easier to pull the bolt back?

[sargcj]

From my research(Don't hold me to it, as it was from the internet, like the guy said above, you gotta be careful...) Most people recommend to upgrade with a tightbore first, if I'm not mistaken. and I would go with getting a new sear set. Mine wore out the first day when adjusting my scope. So I'm waiting on my next payday to order an asgi reinforced sear set, 55 bucks, hopefully it is worth it. From there (this is my personal opinion, but I may be wrong) you can go with a spring, spring guide, & piston. But I'm sure somebody else can say with more assurance & experience. Just trying to give a little helping hand. Best of luck.

[Fridge Gnome]

So if I go with a spring for 500FPS, would a new cylinder and piston put me over the 550 limit?

[Death]

A cylinder and piston SHOULDN'T add any FPS at all. As long as you make sure that your gun has no air leaks then adding those wont give you any fps.

I would never just put an upgraded spring into a stock BAR. The sear sets are too cheap. I need to rummage around to find my stock trigger unit and try those ASGI parts myself Even though I've seen first hand that they can take a 550 spring.

The first thing I would do to my rifle if I knew it wouldn't break anytime soon is a tightbore barrel as well as going through the gun and properly lubing/sealing the gun. With the cheap mass production of these things I'm sure a lot of these have air leaks out the wazoo. Make sure the cylinder walls are cleaned and lubed as well as the piston and the o-ring.

[Fridge Gnome]

I ordered a 6.03 Tightbore with it, as well as a NcStar 3 or 4-9x40 scope

so basicly I should: Install tightbore and clean/lube the gun, (Do the mods?), and get a new trigger sear.

From there I guess get the gun crono'd and see where I am at, and possibly get a new spring.

and from there upgrade bits and pieces for durability and accuracy

Is that a good plan?

[vulrath]

Taking the cylinder head off and running some teflon tape around the threads on it wouldn't hurt (though I think that's what Death was talking about). I did that with my L96, and on my compression tests (take the inner/outer barrels off, cock it, then put your finger over the air nozzle on the cylinder head and pull the trigger, and time how long it takes for all the air to leak out and the piston head to finally contact the cylinder head) I got 2 minutes easily (I would have gone longer, but I got lazy; of course, my tests are skewed because the only stock parts on my rifle are the stock, cylinder, trigger unit, and spring guide).

By the way, you can wait on getting a metal spring guide (as far as formal upgrades are concerned). It's not a high-stress part (example: my L96's spring guide - I had a KM Head piston/head and metal spring guide set, and the spring guide on that snapped on the first pull, but the stock one has been going strong on my 550 fps spring for a few months now; my findings were confirmed by members of the ASF sniper community), so it can be put on the bottom of your upgrade list if need be (meaning if it doesn't come in a kit with another part).

Also, you should probably check out the VSR subsection of the sniper rifle forum of airsoftforum. Lots (read: TONS) of information to be had over there.

[Death]

[vulrath]

I'll consider trying that the next time I have to rebuild my cylinder (like I said, right now my compression is awesome, so there's no need to mess with it). Either way works.

[Fridge Gnome]

Im a little confused about O-ring taping and stuff as ive never looked in a (non walmart) spring gun, but I assume if should be easy to figure out where those parts are.

[vulrath]

You should be able to figure it out. The BAR's cylinder is the bolt, so the cylinder head would be the part on the end of the bolt logically. Once you take the cylinder head off, you'll see that there's an o-ring on it nearing the top of it (at the edge of the threads, next to the little lip that tells you when you've screwed it in all the way. That's the o-ring we're talking about.