by vulrath » Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:08 am
I just watched your video, and so far so good, but I'd like to give a couple of pointers as a user of the gun yours is based off of:
For the sake of your hop up, keep silicone as far away from the gas in your mags as possible. Otherwise the oil collects on the bucking, and your BBs will slip by without catching properly and your accuracy and consistency will suffer. Some buckings will end up swelling because the material they're made of absorbs silicone, too.
You can lower the FPS by loosening the tension screw that holds the striker spring in, and raise it (assuming your screw isn't bottomed out). You'll have to do some trial-and-error with the chrono to get it exact, but it is doable. Everything that I've read points to having it around 80% in is the max you want to screw it in.
The paint on the bolt has scratched off of both of my KJW bolts in certain places, and I believe it happens with Tanaka bolts too. It's a moving part; it seems to come with the territory, unfortunately. Not sure how Cold Blue would react as I believe it's a pot metal part.
You might be having problems with the hop up and barrel that I did with the KJW: on the KJW, the stock bucking/barrel combo were CRAP. I had to ditch them for a modified Madbull bucking (if you have a lathe, then that's the only time I'd willingly suggest this method over, say, an EDGI barrel) and a Nineball bucking (courtesy of Parafrog Airsoft - I had to call in and order over the phone, but they had them, which was unheard of at the time and might still be as I haven't looked recently). I'm not sure if King Arms has fixed the flashing issue on their buckings, or if you'd still have to turn that inside out and clean it up. You've already got the FPS, so now you're just missing consistency and accuracy.